Wednesday, January 16, 2013

In Her Language Women Embrace The Masculine








I'm a big fan of Phoebe Philo and no other contemporary designer since Helmut Lang excited me and made me yearn for what surprise she will come up with in her collections for Celine. Yearning because I can see myself wearing her clothes or wishing I designed those or even just being impacted with the way her ideas about dressing feels modern, new and sensible. I've come across, bought and embraced other brilliant designers for their strict vision and point of view. But in Philo I have felt more than that when I see her clothes. It's quite simple at first glance and many of her pieces come from a classic derivation. I guess, it's really the voice and what she wants to tell in her clothes that make it so distinctly clear to me. She speaks the language I understand and makes me strive to better the craft of designing clothes. In the absence of Helmut I found another designer who makes me dream of fashion. 

For pre-fall 2013, the Celine woman continue to play with volume and a bit of over-sized proportions. The spring/summer 2013 collection played with raw details but this new collection returned back to tailoring with feminine touches like pearl buttons and huge brass buckled belts. It's both blown out and then gathered in, at least, that's the silhouette I see. Like an exercise in control and release. My favorite look was the navy cropped tailored jacket on top of a turtleneck and paired with a high-waist pants. I can see myself wearing it minus the turtleneck, I guess. 

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