Let me tell you something about the concept of my Philippine Fashion Week capsule collection. I based it on 'memory' and past influences like the 90's and Helmut Lang. The pieces are reworked of existing shapes and patterns I've done before. Hence, the memory part and the title being described as 'vestiges of the subconscious'. I wanted it to be very sedate, wearable and my goal really is to come up with clothes that are not just for the runway.
I find it funny though that a lot of the reviews I've got described my clothes as simple. I must admit they do look simple but in reality the patterns I've used for the dresses and even just the vests are quite complicated. I expected ' fashion writers' to come backstage and inspect the clothes and talk to us designers but it was only Mega and the Chang siblings who talked to me after. Maybe that is the reason why most of them didn't get it.
I wanted also to feature different textures and fabrics, I normally just use 2 or 3 the most, but for this collection I had Vietnamese leather, Takeo weave, Japanese cotton, chiffon, Cambodian silk, organza, cotton jersey, etc. There's sheer, matte, shiny and smooth.
I ended up using a Bjork track because they couldn't play 'Drifting' by Claude Chale.
I was really happy Jasmine opened for me. Here she's in a short layered dress of chiffon and cotton jersey with leather fringe neckpiece.
It's just in the styling here but the wrap top is very wearable and versatile paired with a wrap dress with a complicated side cuttings. Those are the details you really can't see in the runway.
Samantha's wearing a shift combi of silk and cotton with suede scarf.
To reinforce the memory concept I opted to use PP synthetic plastic camera neckpieces.
I really didn't like this model. Her face looks bent or something. And her puson is so big. Nothing personal, she's nice though. She's wearing 3 layers of different cotton paired with pants. It's supposed to be low waist but it became high waisted here because it couldn't fit her. That is the reason why it's important to use the right models for your designs. But what can I do? The organizers assign the models. Good thing not all my models are chaka. I have designer friends complaining that they had to cut off a good portion of their dresses because the model lied about their height. Or waistline! Goodness help you backstage!
Amy is wearing one of my most complicated patterned dress. It's an assymetrical style frock that you can tie in the front to balance the proportion of it. It's paired with gladiator boots. Someone asked me if I copied Balenciaga and I said no because Raf Simons did it before him for his own collection and it's where I got the 'warrior' concept. The boots are made here in Cambodia but the leather comes from Vietnam.
I originally intended of doing an all jersey collection but I got wind that a lot of my designer friends were using the same fabric, too. I couldn't resist on this piece because it required a heavy fabric that drapes. I wanted the dress to be versatile. You can make the train into a cape, a scarf, a hoody, etc. The silk tassel neckpiece was designed by my friend Loven Ramos.
My big black bird dress. Got the most rave and flak. Here my intention is to really go over-the-top with the texture. And it's never meant to be worn in the tropics as some commented that it's impractical. Yes, I know that. I designed it for people who might use it abroad, anyway. Like here in Cambodia, it can get cold that some have to even use furcoat. Crazy, huh? But it's true. There was a time when it even snowed here. Anyway a collection has to be versatile nowadays. It got bought so I guess clients have a different criteria than most fashion writers.
Here Lance is modeling my look for men. Indian cotton scarf over a cotton jersey tee with a layer of Cambodian cotton tank and Takeo weave shorts. Takeo is a province in southern Cambodia known for silk and cotton weaving. It's just 7 hours from Siem Reap. Yeah, that far.
A hoodie top made of Takeo cotton and board shorts of Japanese cotton. And gladiator boots for men.
Biker jacket and a slightly looser cut pants with classic men's formal. I'm so glad I had all the shoes made. It really completes the look I want.
Some line-up by a fellow designer backstage.